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The ALX-Files: On a Practical Approach to the Area 51 R1 Aurora Power Supply Swap EVGA 1600 T2 P2 G2 Corsair ax1500i ax1200i XFX Seasonic 1250 Hale90 1200 & Other PSU Models

Question asked by Cass-Olé on Jan 11, 2014
Latest reply on Mar 2, 2015 by SLK_VIK


the ALX Files is a Series of How-To Guides I produced, dedicated to

Taking Care of Baby

Master I/O AlienFx Daughterboard Reference Photo

10pin 1Mb.png

Learn it Live it Know it

Area-51 R1.6

Ultimate Lesson: EVGA 1600 T2 P2 G2

4064.MIO Build Log (78).JPG

AlienClub member Pasolaminado contracted me to hand-make his MIO 10pin + extension

All information produced here is dedicated to EVGA T2 P2 G2 Power Supplies, which have their own unique cables & pinout: the diagrams below are not applicable to any other model PSU

applies to 1000 1200 1300 1600 T2 P2 G2

the techniques you discover should cross-over to all other PSUs, so watch & learn

Paso is the 50th Area-51 R1 owner whom I've helped with my hand-made cables ... I wish his 1600P2 was order #51, but it is what it is: I've finally got this chassis under my belt, proudly displayed here



here's his EVGA Mthrbrd & 1600watt PSU Swap Guide ... enjoy:


Area-51 Skylake 6700k | Z170k Classy Motherboard | EVGA 1600 Power Supply Swap


1600 T2 P2 G2 Proven Pinout

Color 1600 P2 FP Full.jpg

note: SATA 6pin port, SATA devices get a 5wire 6pin modular cable + connect; Paso tested the unused pin in the top left slot for whether it is a live 3/5/12 or ground & it appears to be a 'dead' pin. Unfortunate too: if it was a live unused 5volt or live unused 12volt (as seen in Corsair / Seasonics), it would or could have come in handy under certain wiring-connecting scenarios (discussed in my larger Guide later). I'm confident that the below Harness Kit is about the best way to go about connecting MIO to 1600P2, & I'll show alternative ways to make a harness also

3823.MIO Build Log (76).JPG

P2 FP.jpg

MIO desires a 10wire harness & I've grabbed up 10 Front Panel pins to power AlienFx

x6 wires through the spare 8pin CPU port, x3 through SATA 6pin port: the 10th wire - 5VSB purple - I've split the wire, jumped it inside of a tapping extension, where one wire goes to the motherboard as it normally would & a jumper is directed or splits to MIO, which likes to have 5VSB per factory spec. If you can't split 5vSB with a jumper, or tap 5vSB somehow, you'll have to find a way to get Standard (red) 5volts to your purple pin instead, example: from the red pin of another open SATA port

Built 77.JPG


our factory 1k 1.1k 1.2k PSUs = 8 1/2" or 216mm ... this one? ... 8 13/16"



1600 Master 24 18 10 Color Full.jpg




2287.MIO Build Log (95).JPG

due to the 29inch 750mm long cables, I've been commissioned to make a 13" 15" set




DSC_4547 ALT.jpg


to pull this off without a hitch, I asked Paso to mail me a few cables: 24p ATX CPU 8p & SATA 6pin, for sizing & to interrogate cables for their pinout, which lead me straight to 1600P2's pinout

8562.Assembly One (1).JPG long extension (7).JPG

3617.Assembly One (2).JPG

5344.Built (78).JPG

the finished cables are staged inside of my Alien: all looks good & ready for shipping

Built Color.JPG

X-Ray Vision

PSU Front Panel pins push out 3 / 5 / 5vSB / 12 / Ground ... I grabbed up what MIO needs & all of the connector pins match up in their respective slots

Making sure the harness pins all match up: Continuity & Voltmeter Testing

I triple quality checked the cables with my voltmeter set to Continuity Test before mailing them out ... on arrival, Paso was advised to place PSU chassis on a work table & use his voltmeter to confirm the MIO harness & Sneaky Pete output volts grounds identical to the Reference Photo, which they did ... the steps to check your cables are shown below:

  • his voltmeter has Continuity Test with audible alarm, so he quality checked the cables too
  • afterwards, he did a benchtest for 5vSB, then for live volts /grounds after a jumpstart 'on'


your final act is to bench test your hand-made MIO 10pin harness, as above


Teaser Pic: a Sneak Peak from inside of Paso's 51



Joe Day One D.jpg

MIO tell-tale orange & blue LEDs are lit: this tells me the harness passoed inspection

chassis & cables are installed: cables tested safe & approved for use

  • PSU plugged in, rear switch 'on', PSU off: tested for 5volts Stand By to MIO pin5 = passo
  • PSU jumpstarted on, MIO 10p volts grounds tested against Reference Photo = passo


he used the jumpstarter - probed new cables (voltmeter) with PSU plugged in - then when jumped 'on', following the jumpstart / voltmeter test I put together for you here

Publishing the How-To

MIO Build Log (1).JPG

I prefer to use 16gauge Molex PSU Pin Terminals from

  • Female Pin Molex Part# 39-00-0211 >< Male Pin 39-00-0081
  • 10pin Molex Mini-Fit Jr Connector: Female part# 39-01-3105 >< Male 50-36-1738
  • 16gauge wire by Lutro0, care of
  • Mainframe also supplies PSI pins, 10p / 8p / 6p / 4p connectors, wire & sleeve etc

some materials in photo above were culled from Video Cables I made, see below, left

Vids Day 1 (3).JPG

the harness materials, above left, some of the pins need to be backed out 1st, below

MIO Build Log (7).JPG





you can buy pin removal tools or use something flat: needle, thumbtack or similar

MIO Build Log (12).JPG

that's better.

1600P2 is as long as the Titanic: only a 10p extension is required, no need for an 18p

MIO Build Log (22).JPG

your starter material? It can come from your unused CPU 8pin & an unused SATA 6pin

don't wanna cut up your new cables? I don't blame you: try eBAY for new/used CPU 8 & SATA 6

MIO Build Log (27).JPG

MIO Build Log (36).JPG

MIO Build Log (40).JPG

MIO Build Log (43).JPG

I slap the male pin on last, solder it, push it into its 4p connect ... so let's move on & see what it is I'm also going to make that the 4p male will eventually connect to 

Extension How-to: 10pin Branch of the 24pin ATX cable

10p extension's for one & only one reason: tap 5volts Stand ByI could of course, but I don't & won't disturb the factory 24pin ATX cable by jumping directly into 5VSB which exists in its 10pin branch, but what I will do is make a short faithful plug & play recreation of the 10pin branch & make my 5VSB tap inside of that instead; I'm making a mini-extension / adapter for the 24p 10p branch to plug into, which will also house my MIO 5VSB jumper wire, which I'm about to make below 

MIO Build Log (53).JPG

1600P2 is using upgraded 16gauge wire in the 24p ATX cable; there are x9 16g wires inside the 10p branch - 5VSB is one of them - so I'll insert a 16g wire to feed the 24p (the motherboard) with, & my 5VSB jumper approach will simply be one 16g wire folded over on itself, as seen above, finished jumper as seen below

MIO Build Log (68) - Copy.JPG

MIO Build Log (73).JPG

MIO Build Log (74).JPG

MIO Build Log (77) Used.JPG


x4 Custom Grfx Cables

At 29.5" or 750mm each, x4 1600P2 factory grfx cables in SLI = about 9.8feet or 3meters of cable in the case floor area ... it's too much ... our original vid-cables are custom sized to 11" & 13" which is easily managed, so I'm going to do Paso a one time favor & hand-make a shorter 13" & 15" set. I have brand new Grfx cables from my ax1200i cable pouch which begin as 24inches, I'll mod those by lopping off 9"-11"; I won't disturb the factory VGA ends, I'll simply pop new PSU females on the PSU modular ends of these cables & drop solid VGA connex on, wired to 1600P2  Front Panel specs.

TIP: sells individually sleeved cables for G2 P2 T2 & many other PSU models

  • 29.5" 750mm T2 P2 G2 Grfx Cables are way too long for your Alien
  • even 24" 600mm basic cables from any PSU maker can seem long
  • Custom Length Grfx Cables

They can make & sell you as many Grfx cables in whatever length you want, it's up to you; they have a size Configurator on their ordering page where you might try a set of 350mm & 400mm cables (~14" & 16"), about $15 (US) each, it's money well spent

An alternate plan is to buy new or used EVGA Grfx cables on eBay & mod them yourself or pay someone to - but not me, I'm not for hire anymore - below is a one-time only affair in the best interest that 1600P2 finally makes a proper debut in AlienClub Coliseum using proper length cables

Vids Day 1 (7).JPG

Vids Day 1 (9).JPG

Vids Day 2 (1).JPG

Vids Day 2 (3).JPG

Vids Day 2 (6) - Copy.JPG

et voilà

MIO Build Log (93).JPG

I'll talk about 1600 P2 & the hand-made cables above, as well as possible other ways to integrate this chassis into your 51 using less-advanced wiring techniques compared to my Pro Kit above. For now, let's discuss 5Volts Stand By & possible ways to tap into it ...

 - 5volts Stand By -

The Industry Standard Color for 5VSB wire is purple. A normal computer - with just a motherboard - only one 5VSB wire / pin is needed from the modular power supply, sent through the 24p ATX directly to the motherboard over pin9 ...: our computers 'jump' 5VSB between the mother & daughterboard per factory specs.

When the PSU is plugged in but it is off, so long as the rear switch is 'on', the PSU kicks out 5volts: a motherboard might use that 5v to help power a USB device, with PC off (but plugged in). For similar reasons, our MIO boards get 5VSB along with the motherboard. 

When your computer is plugged in but off, 5VSB pin is hot 5V, outputs 5V ... when your PC is turned on? ... 5VSB remains hot 5V - still outputs constant 5V:

  • your MIO needs 5volts on powerup to pin5 purple
  • but it can survive if it doesn't get 5VSB in the least it has to have standard 5volts

The Industry Standard Color for typical 5volts is red, I call it standard 5volts: your standard 5V pins are only hot 5V when PSU (computer) is turned on. If MIO can't get 5VSB from the Front Panel or the 24pin ATX cable somehow, you have to 'turn' pin5 into Standard 5V, it's as easy as finding an open 5volt pin somewhere, or jumping purple to red so that they share a pin, share a slot together

Again, forPaso, SneakyPete 10p extension's there to tap 5VSB without fooling with the 24p ATXFinal 1600 0.jpg

Let's call it for 'Warranty Purposes' ... what if you bought a spare 24p? Well, you could tap it 5VSB

Final 1600 1.JPG


no extensions necessary ... depending on the PSU of course

My larger Guide in the separate post below has advice on ways to tap 5VSB. Let's see how the original PSU does this

Final 1600 1a.JPG

two purple wires jumped to the same pin, sharing 5VSB

If you'd like your MIO & your Alien to wire back to factory specs after your PSU swap, you have to tap 5VSB somehow ... but if you can't? ... you can still provide - in fact - you have to provide purple pin5 standard 5volts, meaning if you can't tap purple 5VSB then you have to tap into red Standard 5V somewhere

Final 1600 2a.JPG

A lot of people are befuddled by my PSU Guide, it is too difficult to learn by?, to that I say, back (or cut) the MIO 10pin harness out of your original case harness, or buy a $15 U647R case harness, re-use the old PSU pins or better yet apply brand new proper pins to it ... either way, original MIOs freed from the bonds of that dead-end case harness are an excellent source material, color-coded for ease of use,, & are just a few places to shop for connectors, pin terminals, sleeve, wire, extensions (for source material), you can buy pre-pinned wire with pin terminals already crimped on & sleeved, this is my best advice, since there is no way around not hand-making one of these harnesses. Above, x3 MIO 10p's, freed from the U647R case harness, & each of these three has its own take on how to integrate to 1600 T2 P2 G2

Final 1600 3.JPG

Final 1600 4.JPG

Final 1600 5.JPG

I dug Harness 4 out of a box, didn't know it was in there

If your modding skills are non-existent?, a scenario exists where if you're lucky & your red MIO pin10 wire is jumped to another red 5V wire (in Main Sata, 24p ATX or Hard Drive SATAs), if you snip what will be the unused red wire a few inches back, maybe you can use it to splice into purple ... convert purple to standard 5volts ... proper insulating connectors & heatshrink are WAY BETTER than splice & dice + electrical tape ... regardless, the above photo shows a 4th way to get 1600 P2 and just about any other PSU into your 51, without tapping 5VSB or making extensions like I do here

Final 1600 1b - Copy.JPG

If your red MIO pin10 isn't jumped to another red wire, well, purple pin5 is certainly jumped to the ATX purple wire ... back the purples out of the 66pin & the reverse would happen here: cut the ATX purple & splice your red MIO pin10 wire to it ... in this scenario, you plug the purples into your new 6pin & make an external splice to red MIO pin10 ... it's a twist on the Harness 4 photo ... understand???

What exists inside of my sleeved black harness?

And maybe yours?

Stare at the Diagram while I talk

To make a black sleeved harness like I made - but without robbing from your new pouch cables - go to eBAY, look for a T2 P2 G2 CPU cable & SATA cable (new or used): when they get there, cut them up, use the factory female pins where you can, back any pins out when needed & relocate them, for instance a CPU cable is double-ended = 16 PSU pins = 16 wires to work with + SATA = 5more. Head to for whatever connectors / male-female pins you need, re-use the sleeve off of your CPU/SATA. Look at the MIO on your old case harness, it's color-coded, apply what you see to the tremendous visual material I produced for you here, hopefully it all works out for you there

Consult a Local PC Pro, Audio Install / TV Repair Shop: maybe they can make it for you


Note the attention I paid in this diagram to pin5 purple

it can either be genuine 5VSB that you've tapped from ... somewhere ... somehow

or it can be converted to Standard 5V by grabbing a 5Volt pin off the front panel

- tap 5vSB ... an idea -


micro 24pin extension available from eBAY US seller new_used_computer_parts

  • 90 Degree Left Angle 24-pin E-ATX Motherboard Power Supply Adapter Cable
  • 90 Degree Right Angle 24-pin E-ATX Motherboard Power Supply Adapter Cable
  • a right & left are available, it depends which way your 24p orients

The obvious idea here is to have this seller make you a micro-24p-extension, using 16gauge wire of course (in the 19-20 major wires 3/5/5vSB/12/ground), & intentionally insert an 18gauge jumper wire on Pin9 for you as your 5vSB jumper wire. From there, design a way to get it down to the case floor into your MIO 10pin, on pin5 purple - either using a single ~24inch wire (a hard-wire direct to MIO 10pin) or design the 5vSB jumper wire to wear a 2pin / 4pin break-away connect like I do it

Most 24pin male-to-female extensions like above are normally 6-8inches long, they're bulky up there in the motherboard / black snaplok area ... today's the 1st time I've seen a micro-adapter, it could be put to good use if someone can insert a jumper into pin9 & gobble up 5vSB that way ... ... ...

the eBAY seller above appears to do specialty cables, consult with them to explore your options: perhaps they can make a non-angled mini ... a normal extension, no right-angle etc. is another vendor who might be able to do this same work. Whether you try a 24pin extension up top, or try the 10/14/18 'Branch' extension(s) at the opposite end in the case floor at the PSU, an extension is a proper place to tap / split  5VSB between your motherboard & MIO 

- tap Standard 5volts ... an idea -

  • you can jump purple to red & grab 5V on the same pin terminal from one connector slot, as I showed in Harness 2
  • you can isolate MIO pin5 'purple' into its own 6pin as I showed in Harness 3


5volts can even be tapped from your Main Molex cable if you install one: wire pin5 up with a long extending wire & crimp one of these pins on for all I care ...

or mod a SATA extension, tap a new SATA head, just a 5V wire


my PSU Wiring Project is done ... good luck with yours

Trick or Treat

I'm making a Halloween 2016 edit right now ... I was on uTube & stumbled on a March 2016 video which includes a hand-made MIO harness for EVGA 1300 G2 ...

Youtube: Moving my Gaming Rig into the Alienware Area 51 R1



- desperate times call for desperate measures -

I left a comment on this person's video directing him to my Part1 Guide here & Part2 later below of course: hopefully he'll use the illustrations available or contact me for a Pro Kit ...

the Parasitic Twin adapter seen above?

Crude but effective - I've seen a few of these before - one must do what one must do in order to defeat Evil Alien Proprietary Technology. Be that as it may, I've shown what else can be done for a psu model like an EVGA. In a world where we can tap the modular ports for all power - for all volts / grounds - why leach power off of a 24p & rob the motherboard? In the world of the micro-24p extension seen earlier, I'd settle for splicing into 5vSB only, then grab the other x9 wires through a hand-made modular 8pin & 6pin which snatch power from the front panel, as the best way. Naturally, if you can get a harness whipped together, you can always come back later & take a 2nd better shot at something a bit more proper, something a bit more well thought out & I hope you do ... not the 1st result, but ...

the End Result

Custom Length Cables T2 P2 G2

EVGA's 1000w 1200w 1300w & 1600w PSUs have one thing about them that's difficult to get over: the size of the GRFX cables, 29.5" 750mm = ~10 Sneaky Feet / 3 meters of wire in the case floor area, worse if you have triple cards = 15 feet *yikes*


I make my own GRFX cables, I'm set here


Well *sigh* Put it in your budget to someday order a set of custom length Grfx cables, they're ~$15+ each, a set of x4 = $60+, but it's $ well spent, does away with the Anaconda in your case floor area which has limited space as it is. Again, even standard 24" 600mm cables can be a bit much.

Goldilox vid-cables are ~13" - 16"


TIP: offers Mod/Smart custom cable sets & sizes, Google this search term: EVGA mod/smart Single Braid Maxcord Cable Set, note this is a full pouch of new cables in various color choices where you can pick up x4 - x6 Grfx cables in more manageable lengths of 13" - 16", whatever size you want to order

CPU 8pin: 28" - 29.5" (700 - 750mm) works best in 51 R1

SATA cables: our factory originals for the x6 hard drive bays are about identical in size to the EVGA SATAs, coming in at ~21.5" 550mm from PSU connector end to the 1st SATA head; if / when ordering (custom sleeved) SATA cables for your hard drive bays, 21.5" 550mm is a good choice. Paso has taken my advice & used x2 SATA cables for the HDD bays: each cable powers x3 HDD bays while the 4th SATA head on each 1600 P2 cable goes unused

24pin ATX: custom sleeved should be fine at 23.5" - 24" ~600mm, same as what arrives in your new 1600's pouch

And last but not least - yes - a competent modder can make a matching individually sleeved MIO 10pin, using excess materials from a custom sleeved set: for advanced methods, find them in the Original Swap Guide ... scroll down below to find it 'all'

Left v Right

... make a 24pin (branch) extension? ... or forego the black snap-lok organizer ...

EVGA T2 P2 G2 is one of the few PSU chassis' that have a right power port location

When choosing a PSU, the way the front panel looks with the fan facing up is how you can tell where the 24pin ATX (branches) will orient:

  • this post is dedicated to Paso & his EVGA beast chassis
  • his 10pin 18pin branches reach the front panel without need for an extension, while the solid 24p mthrbrd end routes back up, out & over the black snap-lok
  • the 10p extension I made him was for one reason: tap 5VSB, leave factory 24p untouched

There are things to learn about other modelsof course, like knowing what you might be in for based on which model you chose to go with. My 1st PSU swap was the Seasonic x-1250 (from above)


I disassembled our U647R case harness, popped all new pins / connex on the ends, tapped the 24p ATX cable & only after the chassis went in did I realize the 24p was too short to reach - thus - I began making 7" extensions & tapping them 5VSB as the best of excuses. Don't get me wrong, the 18+10 branches can plug in without need for a 7" extension - but - the 24" cable no longer routes up, out & over the black snap-lok; that's why I devote so much time to 5VSB & extensions: do you or don't you? can?, will?, won't ... yes or no

use it or lose it


(disregard arrow); Corsair ribbon 24pin befuddled the owner into the routing you see


above, baby brother Aurora can have the same issue with a new 24p ATX cable, & some owners chose to forego use of the snap-lok ...

Right mount 24pin ATX (branches) - like T2 P2 G2 - have their advantage, they can 'require' less:

  • 24p (10/18) can be a direct plug-in
  • by-pass 5VSB (turn it into Standard 5V) & your Project requires less work & materials
  • putting more into it than that is entirely up to you

Left mount 24p (branches) incur a penalty of sorts: either make / use an extension - either tap it or don't - either keep or lose the snap-lok as a cosmetic 'penalty' / factor

Snaplok cable organizers in A51 can be dropped down an inch or two, it might help:

  • back the x2 screws out - drop it down - insert x1 screw / hold unused screw in a box
  • depending on motherboard, move snap-lok down may / may not interfere with SATA ports 

cash money 2.JPG

my Seasonic Platinum 1200 Pro Kit: ribbon MIO + 10/18 extensions (sleeved) & tapped 5VSB

 cash money.JPG

assembled Pro Kits: NZXT Hale90 1200 Corsair ax1500i / 1200i Seasonic / XFX 1250

left mounted chassis' do their best & look their best with extensions:

  • wire back to the stock 5VSB spec ... route back to the stock snaplok look

EVGA T2 P2 G2 models - 1000 / 1200 / 1300 1600 - may not need as much 'work', but their Grfx cables tend to be extra-long: little details like that are what await you as you shop & later install


Airea-51 R1.5

Corsair Ax1500i: The Doom'sDay Machine

Project (4).JPG

Customer #53's Alien will become an Area-51 R1.5, & they need my help with the ribbon set

1500i color.jpg thinks Ax1500i 80Plus Titanium is pound-for-pound the best PSU made: I agree

1500i FPanel.jpg

fan face up, the verified front panel pinout orients this way


1500i comes with a full pouch set of Type3 ribbon cables and I'll be using matching material


To date, I've lent my talents to about 15 or more owner's who installed 1500i; some chose the included ribbon cables, others went with ax1200i sleeved cables, & there are's individually sleeved cables as well

What's nice about Corsair, is they sell replacement cables at a great price, so I suggest you purchase some spare cables from them to use as your material, keep your new pouch together un-fooled with for warranty purposes of course

80cm 31.5 cpu 70cm 27.95 24pin.jpg

you get extra-long CPU + Motherboard cables in your pouch

Master Color 1.jpg

I'll be tapping 5volts Stand-By (purple), again, by making a 10pin extension

Master Color 2.jpg

not tapping 5vSB? In all Corsair Type3 PSU models, each SATA 6pin port has a live but unused Standard (red) 5volt pin that you can easily tap into ('turn' MIO pin#5 into Standard 5volts):

  • Corsair SATA cables use a 5-wire scheme, with a 6pin connector on the end
  • that means one slot is always empty
  • the 6th unused slot conceals a live 5volt (red) pin you can tap
  • you will lose 5volt Stand-By features of course, as the cost of the easier cable

but: if you by-pass 5vSB - you may not need a 10 / 14 extension

- Getting Started -

Project (1).JPG

the new 24pin will not be used here, I'll be using my leftovers / scraps

Materials List

  • spare ribbons taken from a 24p ATX cable & x2 SATA cables ( ~$20)
  • empty Molex Mini-Fit Jr connectors (shown)
  • Male + Female Molex Mini-Fit Jr pins / terminals

Project (6).JPG

tip: 10 / 14 extension material can be taken from a new 24p ribbon like above

With a brand new 24pin ribbon, simply cut off the 10 + 14 branches (at the power supply end of the cable) at the correct length:

  • the 10 / 14 will have factory pins already applied, so re-use them
  • simply tap 5vSB from the 10pin branch
  • last, apply MALE pin terminals to the other end
  • push them into your 10 / 14 MALE molex connectors
  • my 10 / 14 MALE Molex connectors are purchased from

below, I've already used the factory 10 / 14 ends on someone else last year, so I'm going to start off with fresh ribbon (leftover scraps), which means I need to place new pins at both ends, which increases the time & effort a bit

Project (2).JPG

above & below: making the 14


(you'll see the finished harness shortly)

below: making the 10, tapped 5volts Stand-By (purple)

10 (1).JPG

10 (2).JPG

(see the finished extension shortly)

- Making the MIO 10pin ribbon - 

1651.mio (1).JPG

this will be easy: disassemble / cut SATA cables, apply new pins, apply connectors ...

 7345.mio (2).JPG

6763.mio (3).JPG

0511.mio (4).JPG

there it is

Project (3).JPG

the owner contracted for all of the cables above

includes an extra CPU cable extension & my liqwid CPU kooling adapter (Corsair H80i etc)


- Bonus How-to Project - 

Mind-Meld a new / better Liqwid Kooler into your 51

51mm (2).JPG

if you can't find the 5pin SL? Back the 5pin off of your old kooler & re-use it (=

51mm (3).JPG

51mm (4).JPG

above: SATA (12v / ground) + fan (rpm-tach)

below: basic 3pin fan power

51mm (1).JPG

for more details about making your own liqwid cooling adapter, use forum search terms:

  • The ALX-Files: Operation Mind-Meld Command Center Retrofit Corsair = Corsware
  • My Project: The Area-51 AlienMaster (Stock Cooler Replacement)


when owner / buyer #53 sends me pics of his 1500i swap soon I'll edit them in here

Qwik Lesson: EVGA 1200 P2 Build

Kit (6).jpg

AClub Forum Member MXOWinterMute gets a hand-made 10p + extension + working AlienFx

Winter contracted me to make a swap kit for his 1200watter

  • note that 5VSB is again tapped / jumped from a Sneaky Petey 10pin extension adapter
  • 5VSB jumper wire is sent through a 4pin male female break-away connect to MIO pin5
  • 8pin modular captures x3 12volt + x3 ground
  • 6pin modular captures 5v / Ground / 3.3v
  • MIO 10pin in harmony with our Reference Photo, relative to EVGA T2 P2 G2 Color Pinout

 lucky Club member gets AlienFx & admirable 1200watter >< I get paid for my time & trouble ...

1200 P2.jpg

7418.MIO (1).JPG

5355.MIO (2).JPG

2211.MIO (3).JPG

SP (1).JPG

SP (2).JPG

SP (3).JPG


WinterMute will debut his Asus motherboard swap & EVGA 1200P2 PSU buildlog soon

I'll edit the link in here after he does


can you tell the several differences between these four models?

how obvious is it that none of their cables are meant to interchange?

do you know how to find the pinout for the CoolerMaster by Seasonic? To build an MIO with?

more questions? find answers in my original swap guide ...

Aurora R4 Seasonic 1000 Swap

Ss 1000 (1).JPG

February 14, 2015 I posted about my Seasonic X-1250 & custom cables swap here:

The ALX-Files: A Triad of Power Supply Swaps. Area-51 Aurora XPS 730x ... How to Make an Area-51 R1.44 Using the r2's New 1440w Delta ... Lessons In the PSU Swap Done Right

Copy / paste the link to see what I did to get the cables done ...

I bought my 4th Area-51 R1 in August 2016, I pulled the 80Gold 1250 out of my R4 above, & swapped in a more appropriate brand new 1000w Platinum, details shown below ... this was a super fast swap

Ss 1000 (9).JPG

the Plati came with its on new cable pouch, but I won't need these, I'm using my black set

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old Seasonic removed, R4 is on my work bench, ready for a new power plant

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cables are pre-installed, I slide the chassis in, using paper to protect the sides

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in about 5minutes, everything's hooked up, & the rear trim can go on

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Let there be 80Plus Platinum Light ...

My 4th 51 R1 will run Seasonic's X-1250 with Custom Antec / Delta 1300w Cables


my soul desire for a successful swap is to grab 5vSB purple, then tap the CPU 8pin & SATA 6pin, wired up based on the MIO 10pin Reference Photo. I'll need a 24pin extension set also ...

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Antec 1300 HCP cables, ordered direct from Antec

Pouch is $26 / shipped, they tossed in a 2nd 24pin cable for $5 as material for the 10 / 18 extensions I need. I'll rebuild this mostly 16gauge wire set to comply with Seasonic's 1250 pinout, & cut to size


I used up a huge bag of premium Molex Gold over Phosphor Bronze 16g terminals on 100% of the cable ends ... to remove all old pins & apply new, made this a very labor intensive project indeed

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the results are well worth the effort

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lookin' good

I've made extensions for the 24pin ATX cable - 10pin & 18pin branches - about 7inches or 180mm

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5vSB has been tapped from the 10p extension & uses a 2pin break away to direct it to MIO 10p

MIO taps the CPU 8pin port for x3 12volts x3 grounds & taps SATA 6pin for 3v / 5v / grd

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Building the MIO 10pin

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I'm using 16gauge wires for MIO (5vSB = x2 20gauge purple joined with an 18gauge black)

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here's where I stopped taking photos for some reason, but you've seen the results already. I'll use a voltmeter to find all the wires, pop the connectors on & secure the sleeves ...

Making the 10pin 18pin Extension Pair

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the power supply side of the 24pin ATX cable branches into a 10p / 18p, & I'll need about a 7inch extension set to help it reach, coming right up. The 10pin branch is where I'll grab 5vSB from

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any wires with old pins on them will be removed 1st, then new pins go on

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working the 5vSB jumper & making it fatter

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CPU 8pin


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SATA / Molex

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all cable lengths are fine, I backed the terminals out, applied new pins, pop connex back on

Video Grfx Cables

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x3 22inch vid-cables were cut down to a more manageable 11 13 & 15 inches

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cable set & 1250watt are installed & working

Final Lesson: Individually Sleeved Cables

Making MIO a Part of Your Matched Set




*Sneaky Petey: remember, you can always try to make a short (2"-3") 10pin extension, tapped 5VSB ... the mini-extension / adapter as seen in the EVGA P2 section; the remnant of your spare CPU cable can be used as the material, in an effort not to fool with the costly sleeved 24pin 

*Note: I have to make my own MIO 10Pin cables, I have no choice in the matter


*Note: if you buy a boxed set of individually sleeved cables (Corsair / EVGA / Seasonic etc), you'll get extra cables in your box --> you can use those, cut them up as your matching material


To power your MIO using those sleeved spare cables as your materials - I suggest that if you need to tap an 8pin & a 6pin port, or dual 6pins as I'll be doing, whatever the case may be, you have the chance to cut up your spare cables ... example statements, at a bare minimum, be aware:


  • you should get x2 CPU 8pin cables, so use the spare, cut it to 7inches
  • you should get spare Molex 4pin & spare SATA cables with a 6pin end on them, so cut the 6pin PSU end to 7inches
  • take advantage of the factory 8pin / 6pin ends with factory terminals + wires
  • you will have to back out any extra wires/pins that won't be needed, ok?
  • the cut cable ends will of course need new PSU terminals crimped on 
  • buy 10 PSU terminals, buy an empty 10pin connector ( etc) to assemble the MIO end of your hand-made cable
  • figure out your 5volts StandBy vs Standard 5volts for MIO pin#5 (purple)
  • if you decide to tap 5vSB from the 24pin ATX, get a voltmeter, probe pin #9 of the 24pin, find where it is at the PSU end of the cable, back that pin out & jump into it
  • use 2pin / 4pin male / female connectors like I do, as your 5VSB jumper wire


5VSB MIO pin#5 too difficult to contemplate? Make it Standard 5volts, I showed you how in the 1600 P2 section, right? Methods 1, 2, 3 ...


Above: spare CPU cable provides the 7" 8pin end, spare Molex cable provides the 7" 6pin end:


  • note: some wires are backed out (one can become your MIO pin#5 wire)
  • 10 new PSU terminals have to be applied to MIO end
  • use the Reference Photo & Corsair Proven Pinout to get the wires correct at both ends


Above, pin#5 (purple) wire is housed in a 4pin female, while the matching black sleeved 24pin cable (photo'd earlier in the EVGA 1600 section, remember?), it was tapped 5vSB, with a short jumper wire that has its own 4pin male, the way I always do it: wired to factory specs


Tip: as we know, Corsair PSU's have two Standard red 5volt pins in each 6pin SATA port, to make things easy ('turn' 5VSB to Standard 5V) - or you can jump to a 5V pin -


  • but you can always isolate pin#5 (purple) wire into its own 6pin to grab Standard 5volts ... 


... just tap into another open front panel SATA port; that simply requires buying (or having) an extra (empty) 6pin connector to pop your wire into (6pin, or whatever connector type your PSU has to deliver SATA power with) ... in that scenario, MIO would have these connector ends as an example:


  • 8pin (x3 12v + x4 ground)
  • 6pin (3v + 5v)
  • 6pin (5v) = 5vSB 'turned' into Standard 5v


yes, pin#5 (purple) wire can be placed / isolated into its own 6pin to grab 5volts

these ideas are for your benefit ... now let me show you what kind of ideas I had for my Alien


Area-51 R1.44

the Knight Fury's Purple & Black Attack

Using the A-51 R2 1500w | 1440w 12volt Max Delta PSU

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note: no 24pin 'extensions' required

Remember how my Seasonic 1250 with the Antec 24pin ATX cable is actually 31" long (24" ATX + 7" extensions)? Due to the soft flexible nature of these individually sleeved wires and how I route the 24pin cable (in a later photo), I do not need to make extensions for this 24inch / 610mm ATX cable to reach from motherboard to PSU ports; therefore I'll tap 5VSB from the 24pin itself; that jumper wire is housed in the purple 6pin connector (above photo)

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unless you do your own custom wiring?

51 R2's '1500watt' is a poor choice for our R1 chassis: buy something else, ok?


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I've debuted this cable set before, but this time, I'm upgrading all of it


Custom Case Harness using CableMod's Pre-Sleeved Set for Material

This is CableMod's $110 Corsair Black boxed set; their 18gauge wire & budget 18g PSU terminals will be yanked out in favor of 150 feet of MainFrame Customs / Lutro0 16gauge thin-jacket wire & 200 Molex premium Gold-tipped 16g pins; I'll disassemble all of this boxed wiring just to have the soft paracord sleeves to start with ... it's a labor-intensive project of epic proportions


I'm going to tap 5vSB from my 24pin; later you'll see that with my PSU plugged in but with system off I get 5vSB power (MIO LED & interior theater lighting works with power off). If you turn MIO pin#5 into Standard 5volts (by grabbing red 5volts somewhere off of your front panel in a SATA port), you lose those features (Standard 5volts is only live when the system is turned on) ... I've gone over & will continue to go over 5vSB vs Standard 5volts, relative to pin#5 purple, in this post & my Original Guide later below on the page you're viewing

- MIO 10pin Cable -






(a few days after these pics, I took the purple 10pin connector off for a black one)

- x6 SATA Hard Drive Bays -


the case's black-wire hard drive bay couplings that lead to your actual hard drives? They only have x4 wires (3.3volt is unused), therefore I stopped making 5-wire SATA cables, it's pointless


- Main SATA / DVD Bay Cable -


- 710mm or 28" CPU Cable -

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Since it's a small ordeal to get the old CPU cable out & the new one in, I've installed mine, where it will stay. It won't be part of the final photo shoot of the finished (pre-install) case harness

- 24pin ATX Cable -

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- Set of Three Grfx Video Cables 12" 13" 15" -

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- Finished Case Harness -

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reduced SATA 6pin count on the front panel means a y-splitter powers both HDD cables)

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- Install Time -

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PSU floor brace removed ... CPU cable, Hard Drive Bays SATA cables pre-installed

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Mthrbrd 24pin and Main SATA / DVD cables pre-installed

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Before the PSU goes into the case, I've plugged in the MIO cable, Grfx pair & the y-splitter into the front panel, then push the PSU + cables into the case, all at the same time to avoid plugging all of those in later (hand-room decreases fast down in there)

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with PSU chassis pushed in 3/4 of the way, I can now start to plug the Main Sata, 24p, HDD Sata & CPU 8pin into the front panel ports

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note I'm using a simple screen to prevent screws from falling into the open fan grille, & as a dust filter, You can buy 140mm x 140mm fan dust filters if you like, for the same reasons

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most aftermarket power supply video-cables are 24" - 29", very long

I've sized mine to a more manageable 12 / 13 / 15 ... the 13" set is installed

the idea above is, the TOP card is about to be powered by my 13" Grfx cables, while also knowing the shroud sill has to close, which it does. That is nice, since I also made a 15" set. When I do X-Fire (or SLI) later, the 15" set will go in of course, to power the top card, while this 13" set will drop down to power the middle card, & yes the shroud will close when using these shorter custom-sized cables ... last, if I ever did three vid-cards, my 3rd 12" Grfx cables set would power the very bottom card without issue

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I started this last week, I'm glad I wired it up right ...

An Epic 24k 16gauge Project

the Knight Fury's Purple & Black Attack is the Swan Song to my time here at AlienClub


this is my last Forum Entry ... after 4years, it is time for us to retire now



- What We Do in Life Echoes in Eternity -

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Climax the Wall


May the Force be with You